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The FYN Journal

Yarn talk, project inspiration, shop updates, and useful notes for makers who like making things their own.

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Peeves – Our Second Favorite Pet

This takes us to Shannon’s pet peeves (there are MANY, we’ll start with the biggest ones)!! At the top of the list nearly every day, yarn “weights”, yes PLEASE note those quotes.

***Direct extraction of a post Shannon once made on Ravelry in a thread when this subject came up:***

“Steps up, mic drop style plops the world’s largest & tallest soap box on floor & steps up

I have some HIGHLY opinionated opinions on yarn weights & classifications! (Funny, not funny, seriously) This is why I rarely answer such posts on Ravelry (or anywhere else) touching on this subject. My opinions rarely match a lot of the common “misconceptions” about yarn weight/gauge.

    1. Because yarn weight classifications are just that no matter what “authority” you ask; an OPINION.
    2. The only “scientific” method of determining yarn weight/gauge has been around for a VERY long time, yet it has been largely ignored by knitters & crocheters. (Wraps Per Inch - WPI, used largely only by spinners) WHY???? Who knows, I’d love to know that answer! A spinner/twister operator made your yarn, why not trust they know what they are doing & know what they are talking about??

WPI is how I gauge yarn weight when choosing a yarn for a pattern. In particular, I do this when looking to sub one yarn for another one. Or when I want to use two (or more) different yarn brands’ bases together because I want more color options. I find out what the original used yarn’s WPI measurement is. This makes guessing at the type of ply or fiber content or other details mostly a moot point.

When I am feeling lazy, I simply look for a yarn that is the same ply & close in fiber content. Then I compare yarn yards/meters per gram to one another. If they are fairly close then I figure I can use it.

As hinted at before by another poster; the most common current example of yarn weight “opinion” is Lace weight yarn(s) being called Fingering weight yarn(s). The wildly popular “sock” yarns that are 463 yards per 100 grams when tested with a WPI gauge are 19 to 20 WPI. This makes these yarns VERY MUCH a Lace weight yarn. For reference, Fingering weight yarns are between 14 to 16 WPI. You can get away with a “Light” Fingering weight yarn being about 16 to 17 WPI. It has long been a standard that any yarn over 17 WPI is considered a Lace weight.

Packs up soap box   ”

This is why the name of EVERY yarn dyed by Shannon at FYN Fibers has a number in its name. The number in the name is the WPI number of that yarn base. This gives you, the maker, a quick reference up front as to what weight a yarn base from FYN Fibers comes closest to. Comparison: Yakley 11, 11 WPI, considered a DK “weight”, 231 yds per 100g skein versus Bifley 11, 11 WPI, considered a DK “weight yarn, 213 yds per 115g skein. While Yakley 11 is clearly, for most, a DK “weight” yarn Bifley 11 is not. No matter how many yards per gram Bifley 11 is; its gauge is 11 WPI & solidly crochets/knits as a DK “weight” yarn.

When I have a new project to start, there’s always that first step in the pattern – make sure you knit a swatch to be certain you’re getting gauge. The last thing I want to do is knit some 6 inch square (to get a good 4 inch measurement), or even double that if it calls for swatching in the round.

I know that I’m a fairly tight knitter, and if you’ve been at it for any length of time you know where you land on the tight – loose spectrum. I also know I’m a bit of a risky knitter and willing to take a chance. So I will generally start a project with a smaller size needle than what the pattern calls for, right off the bat.

The Object Is the Swatch

Once the project is on my needles, and I’m comfortable with the stitch pattern, I’ll go past any ribbing or toe setup and complete about 4 – 5 inches. And that is my swatch. I’ll stop and carefully measure my gauge to verify that I’m within specifications, and if I am, great! I’m already into my project and happily humming along. If not, I frog it and adjust.

It is a gamble, and if you’re a risk taker you can ignore all the sensible careful knitters out there and go directly to your project without a separate swatch. Just be prepared and ready to swatch if you guess wrong. I have a 90% complete sweater sitting in my office that was one of my early projects and I didn’t understand the importance of achieving gauge. That sweater turned out to be about 3 sizes too small when I finally tried it on . . . because I didn’t measure early on.

Is This Really Necessary?

For close fitted obects – sweaters, tops, etc. I would say yes, it’s critical to measure your gauge. For accessories like hats and gloves I think it’s important but not as critical. Socks can fall into either category, depending on how loose you can stand your socks to be. But a scarf, shawl, wrap, blanket, towel, etc.? Not fitted objects. Do you care if your shawl is 54 inches instead of 48 inches? Probably not. You are the decider.

The TLDR is maybe that swatching is not important, but measuring gauge one way or the other is critical for fitted objects.

All opinions expressed within are purely my own, and probably dumb . . .